blancherussell1967 10/23/20 19:44
TOLI – A New Brand Presenting the Scent of the Planet Jupiter
Launching in November 2020, TOLI is a new, UK based scent brand founded by Apostolos Charisis that describes itself as producing “luxury hand-made blends in search for the highest quality natural materials”.
The brand’s mission is:
“To connect people with nature and its raw materiality… to source and share rare, high-quality natural materials along with exceptional customer service and dedication for well-made products. We believe we are as good as the materials we used, and although it is often the case that we use no or little synthetic materials in our creations, we also believe creativity and innovation can be often found in synthetics… we love to push boundaries and experiment with unusual accords.
“Our philosophy is to invest in quality materials … and eliminate packaging and marketing costs that relate to the exterior product appearance, in order to ensure the best value for money products on the market”.
The launch will comprise 6 scents divided into two series: the “Private Series”, which aims to “create comfort in both casual and formal occasions while taking a modern-edgy approach”, and the “Immersive Series”, presenting smells from nature and mundanity (such as the sea, forest, iron, and concrete) “with all their trueness, simplicity or complexity”. All in all, the brand concept is boring and derivative and not indicative of compositions that are likely to have been expertly curated. That said, their presentation of the scent of the planet Jupiter is informative for speaking to today’s wider fascination with undiscovered smells from outer space, as cultural attention begins to swing once again (with initiatives like Space X, Virgin Galactic, Mars One and the United States Space Force) to space travel as the final frontier of human achievement and exploration. Speaking to this trend, we’ve recently published articles on Estée Lauder advertising from the International Space Station, a Kickstarter for the “scent of outer space”, and an experimental project that recreated the scent of alien encounters.
Below are the notes of the opening 6 compositions. Signing up your email on their website will give you access to up to 35% off upon launch.
THE PRIVATE SERIES
EUGEN - 95% natural
"Inspiring, benign, confident and resilient and one of the most complex perfumes of this series, EUGEN brings together a variety of spices such as cinnamon, star anise, cardamom, tonka, cloves, pink paper, juniper berry along with sandalwood, leather and mild pineapple accords in a unique blend that will captivate your senses. Without showcasing or revealing one key ingredient, EUGEN is a comforting, smooth, and silky perfume in its texture, while remaining discrete and highly sophisticated in character."
ALPHA MANDARIN - 96% natural
"ALPHA MANDARIN captures the essence of mandarins with all the freshness and refinement that comes with it. This highly concentrated perfume, made of high quality Italian organic mandarin and citrus oils, projects all the nuances of mandarins bursting in the air that you would get by peeling a fresh mandarin. Accompanied with smoky cade woods, cypress and vanilla, we enhanced the dark and bitter side of mandarins, a unique combination that offers a clean and fresh, but slightly darker feeling. The addition of orange blossoms expands the floral qualities of mandarins leading to a narcotic smell. This is a unisex perfume."
GOLDEN SANDS - 97% natural
"This is a very bright and fresh scent which is based on apricot, lavender, pink pepper, patchouli, fresh melon and peony blossoms. Expect a contemporary, ethereal and light perfume that is easy to wear all day long on every occasion, particularly during summer. This is a 97% percent natural scent and a few sprays will last you approximately 8 hours. This is more of a feminine perfume however can be worn by both males and females."
THE IMMERSIVE SERIES
"ULTRAMARINE allows you to immerse yourself in the sea. This is not a perfume about the sea - it is the actual sea scent magnified. 80% of the ingredients used come directly or refer to sea materials, including top quality seaweed absolutes, ambergris, and criste marine. With only minimal elaborative touches of natural watermelon accords, ULTRAMARINE profoundly maintains the subtleties of the sea, dry salt, and iodine. This pungent, long-lasting and naturally provocative scent is an attempt to expose the raw nature of the sea world as it is and we know it – with only limited peripheral elements."
"If you are stuck in a busy / crowded city and you are in need to escape in nature for a while, ULTRAEARTH can do exactly that. The scent encapsulates the rainforest in all its trueness and reality. Expect a combination of scent qualities deriving from wet woods, leaves, and fresh soil. Materials used include vetiver, patchouli, hay, bran, oak moss, and oud."
"JUPITER captures the smell and essence of outer space, the giant planet Jupiter. The perfume is made either for those dreaming to have a smell experience of the planet, or for the curious minds simply looking for a different, original and unique fragrance. Notes include bitter almond, sulphur, meat, ammonia, rum and strawberry."
Eddie Bulliqi Columnist
Eddie Bulliqi is a writer and speaker who analyses what people want from their senses, specialised in the interpretation of tastes and smells, with a background in musicology and history of art. He has worked with Coty, the Estée Lauder Companies, Esxence, the Institute for Art and Olfaction, and the World Perfumery Congress. For Fragrantica, he produces trend reports, interviews, raw material studies and reviews.
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