Filomena1941 10/21/20 05:37
Moonlight In Chiangmai Dusita Review
Moonlight In Chiangmai is the newest fragrance in the Dusita Paris collection, which was announced a week ago before its launch on October 15th. The launch day of the fragrance was not chosen by chance; it is the birthday of the perfumer's father, Thai poet Montri Umavijani, whose short poems Pissara chooses for each of her fragrances.
Our understanding comes
not because we are
on earth together,
but because we are under
the same heaven.
~ Montri Umavijani
I have never been to Chiang Mai and did not look, like Pissara Umavijani, at the golden cones of Buddhist stupas and royal umbrellas illuminated by the full moon light. But I have been to Thailand during various festivals, and I remember a strip of beach, where dozens and hundreds of people were launching glowing sky lanterns with candles inside into the sky during the Yi Peng festival.
Yi Peng Festival in Chiangmai, 2008 (C) Takeaway, CC BY-SA 3.0
It looked very beautiful and magical. Hundreds of lanterns, carried away by a light wind, against the background of dark clouds and a full moon, were a magical stream of stars. I then wondered: What desires were all of these people making on the seashore, be they Thai or tourists? I don’t think that their desires had any specific shape, like a million three hundred thousand dollars or a new Mercedes coupe model. Our wishes are often general and all-embracing: happiness, health, and good luck for family and friends.
Yi Peng Festival in Chiangmai, 2008 (C) Takeaway, CC BY-SA 3.0
I was told that in Thailand they don't ask the supreme deity for a better life when they launch the lanterns, but they let the winds take away all the problems, worries, and sorrows. Letting worries go, seeing the problems fly away and forgetting about them — it sounds and looks so beautiful. But this is only a symbolic gesture, a beautiful dream, albeit a common one for many people. Because the very next day I regretted that I participated in this ritual together with many others because the sea washed ashore the rusty wire remnants of the lanterns of yesteryear. The sky full of lights gave way to other problems...
But let's get back to the perfume. My impressions of Moonlight In Chiangmai started out very strange. Before all of the citrus and sweet fruity notes, my nose felt a spicy tobacco-leathery tint from the scent base. The characteristic spicy roughness of the masculine fragrances of the past. Warm and tart, this spice determined my attitude to the whole composition: For me, Moonlight In Chiangmai is the scent of nostalgia. Fond memories of great spicy men's fragrances such as Cacharel Pour Homme, Catalyst For Men Halston, Armani Eau Pour Homme, and John Player Special. A warm memory of the fragrances of our young fathers, even if it was invented.
The second wave immediately made me recall my Thailand vacations. It is a sweet and tangy pineapple accord made from jasmine, citrus, and fruity (I think of a green apple) materials. Pissara told me that she was trying to create the Chiangrai Phulae Pineapple accord, which grows in the north of Thailand and has small but very sweet and aromatic fruits. The yellow glow of pineapples is the moonlight in the night sky. Benzoin embraces Moonlight In Chiangmai's pineapple accord with its milky-creamy sweetness. An additional flavor, typical of pineapples, nibbling the tongue and preventing you from eating too much, is created by nutmeg, patchouli, and something tart green leather-like, with a special vintage feeling of "I've definitely smelled this before."
Judging by the description of the fragrance, the teak wood base created by the perfumer several years ago is responsible for the leathery accent, as teak wood smells like leather. I stubbornly think it's isobutylquinoline, which was not used in this perfume base. According to Pissara, her teak accord was created by her using other leather, woody, and resinous materials, such as patchouli, labdanum, vetiver, pine, cedar, coumarin, oakmoss, and styrax. Myrrh also adds a little bit of soft smoke and bitterness to the base. Seems like the dark leathery teak wood base depicts the night sky — endless, mysterious, and black.
Moonlight In Chiangmai sillage is dry and woody-leathery with a a distinct tobacco hue — perfect for those people who don't smoke themselves, but sometimes like to chat with friends in the smoking room. You can also smell dry forest fougere motifs (coumarin, cedar, moss) familiar from the Issara perfume base in its drydown.
Big, warm, spicy, leathery and smoky — the scent of an archetypal Father who knows and understands everything, ready to smile and ready to protect his children, no matter what they do. Father, as the wise supreme arbiter of all family debates, quarrels and fights, convincing his kids to make peace with each other. The Man with all his beliefs, habits, and smells that make family consolidated and united. Father, whose silence and smile are so lacking now.
Middle notes: Nutmeg and Benzoin;
Base notes: Myrrh, Patchouli, Vetiver, and Teak Wood Base.
Sergey Borisov Editor, Columnist
Sergey Borisov studied Physics at Krasnoyarsk University. He's been known in the Internet perfume world under the nickname moon_fish for more than 15 years. His texts about perfumes have been published in Russian print and online publications such as GQ, Vogue, Cosmopolitan, The Rake, Glamour, and other magazines. He loves oud oils, as well as vintage perfumes, and notes of leather, vetiver, neroli, and orris. In 2013, Sergey joined the Fragrantica team.
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