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          I Like to Keep it Simple: Interview with Anne Flipo
          Interviews

          by Ksenia Golovanova
          10/16/20 20:10:16 ( 16 comments )

          Anne Flipo, an IFF Master Perfumer, created some of the biggest, greatest fragrances of the last decade and, more recently, produced Libre and Libre Eau de Parfum Intense for YSL. We sat with her for a while on the day of YSL's Babycat Club, the launch of the brand’s seasonal collection, and talked about Libre and perfumes in general.

          Ksenia Golovanova: Would you say you have a distinct style as a perfumer? If so, how would you describe it?

          Anne Flipo: It’s a difficult question. But I think what I always try to do is make perfumes with a big signature. Also, I like to keep it simple and easy to understand. My style is abstract but always very… finished.

           

          I heard perfume writers call you ‘the queen of flowers’. Is it a thing?

          Yes, I agree (laughing). It’s quite easy for me to play with florals because I basically grew up in a flower garden; they feel very familiar to me. It’s probably the reason why I have a good sense for detail and nuance when it comes to florals. I think I can make them feel very lively.

          Do you have a palette of your own? What are the most recognizable ‘paints’ in it?

          Yes, I do. I enjoy working with green notes; а little touch of green suits flowers so well, all of them. Also, I love everything about the orange blossom tree, its natural derivatives — neroli, orange blossom, petitgrain. And what I enjoy the most is to use touches of green and fruity notes to make the floralcy even more addictive and juicy.

           

          What do you personally think of orange blossom? Some perfumers would say it’s a tough ingredient to work with, having a distinct and powerful olfactory profile, almost being a perfume itself.

          Yes, it’s incredibly complex indeed. But you know, when you put it in a composition it lights up the whole formula, gives it so much life. And you can put so many things around the orange blossom to make it even more beautiful. For instance, components of the orange blossom itself, like methyl anthranilate or methyl naphthyl ketone. Orange blossom is the epitome of femininity in fragrance. And it’s so powerful.

           

          The orange blossom you chose for Libre comes from Morocco. What’s so special about it?

          First, it’s really good, both fresh and opulent. Also, Morocco was Saint Laurent’s home, it was where he developed his brand and his couture collections. Everything makes sense.

          Do you remember the briefs for Libre and Libre Intense?

          Yes. It was a reflection on femininity and masculinity. We had to present a fragrance that was feminine but had some duality about it. So right from the very start I knew it had to be a fougère. It’s a fragrance family that appeared at the end of 19th century and, you know, it was first created for women but men sort of made it their own. My idea was to take a fougère and make it feminine, give it this beautiful ambiguity. So I was looking for something that would work well in a fougère and voilà, orange flower came along. It’s not exactly new; you can find it in Canoe, you can find it in Brut, Le Male etc. But this time I decided to make orange blossom so gorgeous and feminine that it could stand up to the strength of the fougère structure.

           

          As you just mentioned, most often fougère is perceived as a masculine perfume mold. And yet, it’s becoming very popular with women. Why do you think it’s happening?

          Maybe because the boundaries between feminine and masculine are becoming less pronounced too. Oh, and Libre, its orange blossom and all, is worn by men all the time.

           

          Could it be that its increasing popularity among women has to do with fougère’s innate freshness?  A welcome breather from the overwhelming sweetness of today’s women’s fragrances

          Very good point. My goal with both Libre and Libre Intense was to make them ‘addictive’ without being sweet gourmands. I wanted them to stay floral, not edible. And you’re right, the freshness is key; when you smell Libre, the first blast you have is really fresh. 

          Tell me a bit more about the orchid flower accord in Libre Intense. When I was in Singapore, I went to an orchid nursery and smelled everything they had there, and, while some orchids had no scent at all, the others were all very different. Did you use any specific orchid?

          Yes, It was this orchid Oculata (Stanhopea Oculata — ed. note), the one with a very pretty pattern that looks like… an animal print? We used Living Flower technology to sample its fragrance and saw it contained some vanilla-smelling and components. So we decided to enhance the floralcy of the orange flower with this orchid accord, as well as some real vanilla and tonka bean notes.

           

          Both Libre and Libre Intense were made in collaboration with Carlos Benaïm. How did this collaboration work? Did you often meet while working on this project?

          We were constantly in touch and I think I travelled to New York four or five times. It was Carlos who made me smell this amazing orange blossom absolute from Morocco. It smelled so amazing I asked him to step in and work with me. I know that  from the outside, this working ‘together’ on different continents might look complicated, but it’s not. My palette of perfume materials in Paris is exactly the same as the one Carlos uses in New York. It’s this global palette of IFF, the company we both work for. So it works like this: I write down a formula, I smell the result and, if I’m happy with it, I send it to Carlos in New York. He smells what his lab assistants made from my formula, then makes some alteration and sends it back to me. And so on, back and forth. I think the process is actually quite magical.

          How many modifications did it take to put Libre together?

          I think together we did around 1500 mods. I’m not complaining, because we’re so lucky, really. It’s such a big, big, big project. Our fragrance is worn by so many people. It has the most amazing name and it gets to live in a beautiful bottle. Dua Lipa is the face! Yes, we’re very lucky.

           

          What, in your opinion, makes a good perfume? And what makes a great one?

          Alors. A good fragrance is something that, well, smells good. And a great fragrance… in my opinion, it has to be bold and yet very finished. It has to have a big signature. It has to smell powerful. So, it’s both the esthetic and the technical qualities that matter. Also, there needs to be something… different about a perfume to be great.

           

          Some people, perfumers included, think that technical qualities of a perfume don’t matter that much, if the fragrance is beautiful.

          If you take a look at the fragrances that make it to the top-10 everywhere, they’re all very defined and powerful. The goal is to find the balance between identity and what it takes to be successful today, globally. And that means sillage, staying power, definition. It’s not easy at all. And it’s the reason why it takes so, so many trials to produce a good fragrance today.

          Author

          Ksenia Golovanova

          Ksenia Golovanova Author

          Ksenia was born in Mozambique, and spent her childhood in Italy. Later she traveled the European North, and fell in love with Scandinavian visual art. She wrote the first touristic Denmark guide in Russian. Ksenia is an observer, she likes to explore the olfactory mark of every place she visited. Ksenia is an author of the perfume telegram channel Nose Republic.

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          News Comments

          Write your comment
          LuSlovakia
          Pure XS For Her

          LuSlovakia 10/23/20 13:52

          It was pleasure to read, thank you :) what an inspiring woman.
          oobunillaoo
          Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo - Cipresso di Toscana

          oobunillaoo 10/22/20 05:34

          i am a late appreciator of Flipo's works, having only just last week tested Basil & Neroli (a 100ml bottle is on its way to me as i type this.) also impressive to see she is the nose behind Libre - one of the only fragrances that has vanilla in the composition i'm considering a full bottle purchase of as well. having had a quick perusal of her releases it is evident she's got a broad reach and a wealth of creativity. i might be late to the Flipo train but it feels/smells great to be on it.
          myricle
          L’Extase

          myricle 10/20/20 08:15

          When I see Anne Flipo's name, I usually go through with the purchase (especially because I love florals). :) It's far easier to dump a random assortment of aromachemicals in a vessel and call it art than to produce the (much rarer!) kind of pure, timeless beauty a real perfumer like Flipo is capable of creating. Thanks for giving us a look into her creative mind!
          Objections
          Soliflore Gardenia

          Objections 10/19/20 17:41

          Oeillet Sauvage is a masterpiece. A perfume I hold very dear to my heart! Poupee is full of barbie doll charm. It always brings a smile to my face. Tuberose hedonie, a new hopeless love of mine. Ralph lauren woman, another stunner. Thank you for your beautiful creations. Without a doubt one of my most favorite perfumers.
          RJ Watson
          CK be

          RJ Watson 10/19/20 11:01

          @djedi Funny that you could be triggered without anyone mentioning your name. Curiously, the arrogant person (read your initial comment...slowly) doesn’t like when someone calls out their arrogance? You should write comedy. Insufferably clown.
          Lucioetc

          Lucioetc 10/19/20 06:24

          As a guy I love the smell of L'interdit edt on my wife but had not tried Anne Filipo's Libre until today. It is gorgeous and for me does have a big signature in the way she described in her interview. I'm actually wearing it on myself and loving it. It makes a refreshing change from some of the smoky dark fragrances I have been wearing recently such as Jo Malone Myrrh and Tonka and Zadig and Voltaire This is Him.
          Djedi

          Djedi 10/19/20 03:23

          RJ Watson - what a sad and pathetic shill you are. If you don't like my comment fine, but saying it in such an arrogant and pretentious way is just despicable. Get off your high horse.

          Don't worry, I'm aware this will get downvoted/deleted by the know-it-all mob.
          JC2109
          Paris

          JC2109 10/19/20 01:00

          She's right about that Moroccan orange blossom, when I was in Morocco once they had home-made orange blossom soaps and lotions in the riad - heavenly! Very thick and sweet, it's that orange blossom you find in Serge Lutens Fleur d'Oranger.

          I was surprised to find out that the perfumer of the perfumes that I loathe the most (LVEB, L'Interdit, etc etc etc) has made one of my most beloved and most complemented on perfumes Tubereuse Hédonie by Roger&Gallet... Can't wrap my head around that... ;-)
          cobradeathmatch
          Gris Dior

          cobradeathmatch 10/18/20 16:13

          Anne Flipo is one of my faves. She's had a hand in many fragrances I enjoy, YSL Libre now among them. I enjoyed reading about her process and her affinity for the orange blossom!
          RJ Watson
          CK be

          RJ Watson 10/18/20 15:33

          Ahhh, the arrogance in some of these comments is so annoying and obnoxious. Just because you don’t understand the title Master Perfumer, it doesn’t mean the title means nothing. And no one cares of you think a perfumer is overrated. How many perfumes, hit or otherwise, have *you* created? Troll asses with blank profiles.

          Fun fact: Slamming a perfumer because they created a popular, mass-appealing scent that you don’t personally care for, doesn’t make you edgy or original. It makes you boring.
          wtchcrftlc
          Baccarat Rouge 540 Extrait de Parfum

          wtchcrftlc 10/18/20 11:31

          She has got to me of my favorite nose - besides Bernard Chant. I do prefer florals, so makes sense.
          I only discovered her designer scents, long after her work for L’Artisan. I still haven’t smelled many of her designers. (Her orange blossom for L’Artisan was perfection.)
          I may be biased because Verte Violette is still my favorite perfume.
          OD'd_on_OB
          Carolina Herrera by Carolina Herrera

          OD'd_on_OB 10/17/20 20:26

          I'm surprised to read that Flipo is so obsessed with Orange Blossom; I'm similarly enamoured, but I don't detect any especial prioritisation of neroli, petitgrain, or orange blossom absolut in the scents of hers mentioned here... Perhaps it's a case of keeping things simple, but not *that* simple ;)
          Chouli Galore
          Alien Liqueur de Parfum 2009

          Chouli Galore 10/17/20 09:00

          YSL Libre is a very nice perfume.
          Djedi

          Djedi 10/17/20 07:58

          I agree with vanillaOrpatchouli. It's perhaps blasphemous to say something like this on this forum, but to me Anne Flipo is your run of the mill perfumer. Not sure if she's overrated, but her creations do nothing for me at all. Very mediocre. Same goes for Quentin Bisch. Screechy creations and the blending often leaves a lot to be desired. It's all subjective at the end of the day, but it's strange to me some of them are called ''Master Perfumer'', as if that's saying anything.
          vanillaOrpatchouli

          vanillaOrpatchouli 10/17/20 07:49

          i don't know what to make of this article.. first of all it's not orange blossom that makes it unisex it's the lavender that is also in le male and brut. second anyone on the forum can make a better perfume if provided with the same ressources and 1500 mods. what i see is just another overrated perfumer like calice becker.. if you succeed working for these big companies that means you're a great seller but you suck as an artist perfumer
          rickyrebarco
          Alahine

          rickyrebarco 10/16/20 21:17

          Anne Flipo has created some of my favorite florals, Alexander McQueen My Queen, L'Artisan La Chase aux Papillons, L'Artisan Champs de Fleurs and L'Artisan Oeillet Sauvage. So I can forgive her for the ubiquitous La Vie est Belle.

          I also like the fragrances she created for Jo Malone, especially the green herbal ones. I tried YSL Libre when it came out and I found it pleasant, but it didn't seem to match the ad copy for the fragrance. It seemed much too soft to be the fragrance of 'liberation' and 'freedom." I'll have to give Libre Intense a sniff and see what I think about it.

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