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          Flowers In Masculine Fragrances: The Shortlist

          Flowers In Masculine Fragrances: The Shortlist

          by Sergey Borisov
          10/21/20 07:19:20 ( 28 comments )

          No fragrance is complete without floral notes or their constituents, but in masculine fragrances, perfumers tend to blur the floral notes or hide them behind spicy, woody, and leathery notes. Flower bouquets in perfumery are more often created for women, and although no one can forbid those who want to wear women's fragrances, men's florals can also be found — a kind of boutonniere.

          Men's common floral materials are lavender, geranium, and neroli. These have been considered suitable for men since the 19th century, as the green herbaceous freshness brings additional vigor to colognes. The rest of the flowers — rose, jasmine, tuberose, lily-of-the-valley — are usually used on the sidelines in men's perfumery. It was so obvious that in 1999 the American perfume brand Fresh launched Hombre de Flores, a mini-collection of masculine fragrances, created by Lyn Harris. The fragrances Jasminum, Narcissus, and Polianthes Tuberosa were centered on the titlular flowers. Indie perfumer Neil Morris followed suit with the Flowers For Men collection, in which rose, gardenia, and lilac were also addressed to men. Twenty years later, the choice of floral fragrances for men has grown significantly, albeit mainly due to unisex offerings.


          Rose: Rose & Cuir Frederic Malle

          Rose & Cuir Frederic Malle

          How to choose a single masculine rose perfume? We'll have to push aside the traditional oriental pair of rose and oud. A tough and unbearably beautiful version of rose, pepper, and green suede accord in Rose & Cuir Frederic Malle, which, as we know, does not contain the rose essence or rose absolute. But it does include the rose soul, its green and citrus freshness, its berry sweetness, its warm-powdery, cold-spicy and thick, dark green spirit. It is a sweet rose among the poisonous greenery. I should warn you right away that it is not easy relaxation to wear this perfume — it is a kind of labor. For men who prefer soft and supple scents, there are many options like Rose de Mai Perris, Lyric Man Amouage, Rose Collection La Closerie des Parfums, and classic rose water.


          Jasmine: Jasmine et Cigarette Etat Libre d’Orange

          Jasmine et Sigarette Etat libre d'Orange

          Leaving aside the men's fragrances with transparent hedione jasmine (almost all modern fragrances for men), the most jasmine of masculines and the most masculine jasmine fragrance will be Jasmine et Cigarette Etat Libre d’Orange. With a sweet-fruity jasmine beginning, reminiscent of ylang-ylang, and with a tart tobacco smell of a freshly opened cigarette pack, it is an appetizing and inedible fragrance that causes salivation. It is for those men who do not smoke and do not tolerate tobacco smoke, but who love to sniff tobacco unlit, as well as gouache tubes and leather products.


          Lily-of-the-Valley: Aqua Universalis Maison Francis Kurkdjian

          Aqua Univarsalis Maison Francis Kurkdjian

          Aqua Universalis Maison Francis Kurkdjian's icy tinkling floral-citrus freshness is perfect for the whole family to have as a shower, or to wash bed linens, white shirts and T-shirts. Like the white color of clothes, it is a completely versatile fragrance (lily-of-the-valley, hedione, and musk), as the name suggests. The subtle bitterness and longevity is enhanced in the Forte version, in which lily-of-the-valley is supported by indole-tinged jasmine, which is why I prefer this fortified lily-of-the-valley in spring and summer. For those who want even more lily-of-the-valley on a leather backing, choose Lily of the Valley Parfums Quartana.


          Tuberose: Adjatay The Different Company

          Adjatay The Different Company

          The purest, greenest, and most floral option of masculine tuberose for me is still Polianthes Tuberosa Fresh, but it has long been discontinued. Duos of tuberose and tobacco like Tuberai Beau Kwon and Paloma y Raices Homoelegans are not easy to find. For a long time, the spicy balsamic tuberose scent of Vierges et Toreros Etat Libre d’Orange, with its resinous leathery base of labdanum with animalic costus shade, remained the most popular tuberose for men — until Adjatay The Different Company appeared, the demon of night temptations, a bouquet of tuberose hidden under a black leather jacket... And yes, the vegetable green tuberose of Nuit de Bakelite Naomi Goodsir, too.


          Carnation: Fugit Amor Jul et Mad

          Fugit Amor Jul et Mad

          Carnation in masculine perfumes has long been at the heart of barbershop fougeres (Old Spice Shulton, Equipage Hermes, etc), a spicy-powdery transition from lavender to coumarin and musk, eventually becoming an old-fashioned note. It is all the more pleasant to announce that the carnation flower is returning to men's perfumery, for example, in the creamiest and most delicate musk, Fugit Amor Jul et Mad, and in the spicy green The Green Carnation Fur Friendly. These fragrances are outstanding in a carefully calibrated spiciness and perfect durability, a polished marble texture (first) and a splinter character (second). It feels like the spirit of dandyism and Oscar Wilde is back.


          Narcissus: Zeybek Pekji

          Zeybek Pekji

          Narcissus, with its bittersweet animalic-hay-floral smell, is the very welcomed guest in men's perfumes. It works great in leather and fougere accords. Better known are the green daffodils that evoke thoughts of the cold, wet air of the flower shop, such as in Romanza Masque Milano and Jonquille de Nuit Tom Ford, in which narcissus is blended with hyacinth, jasmine, mimosa, moist green leaves, and cold water. My favorite daffodil, Zeybek Pekji, is a tricky one to find, but it's worth the search. This epic daffodil blossoms against the backdrop of a classic masculine fougere on a civet-tobacco base.




          I left some of the floral notes — neroli, orange blossom, heliotrope, freesia, acacia, magnolia, mimosa, hyacinth, cyclamen, lime, and cherry blossoms, etc — without my own answers. There are so many flower notes that the article could become endless. I suggest you recall which floral men's fragrances you like the most, and let us know in the comments section below the article.



          Sergey Borisov

          Sergey Borisov Editor, Columnist

          Sergey Borisov studied Physics at Krasnoyarsk University. He's been known in the Internet perfume world under the nickname moon_fish for more than 15 years. His texts about perfumes have been published in Russian print and online publications such as GQ, Vogue, Cosmopolitan, The Rake, Glamour, and other magazines. He loves oud oils, as well as vintage perfumes, and notes of leather, vetiver, neroli, and orris. In 2013, Sergey joined the Fragrantica team.

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          News Comments

          Write your comment
          Rav Pahud
          Wild Country

          Rav Pahud 10/25/20 06:38

          I thought ANY or ALL men fragrances would have florals on it? Why only these few listed?
          Prada L'Homme

          dhruvdevvanshi 10/25/20 04:00

          I would prefer to Bulgarian rose dipped onto the tobacco smoke lashing with amber. Nevertheless, Gardenia absolute nevermind to decorate the power of Manetism....

          ShotsK 10/24/20 22:46

          unisex scents aren't for men. the article is stretching reality too much for me

          Mr.Xavier 10/24/20 20:49

          Does mimosa count? If so, put Grey Flannel on the list.
          Pure Turquoise

          Olotitan 10/24/20 19:41

          My first true and amazing experience with flowers in men fragrances was "Givenchy's Insensé"
          This Aromatic fougere floral woody amber
          A MASTERPIECE IMO it was simply beautiful and long lasting, it was definitely a daring fragrance for its time compared to all the aquatics that everyone was wearing in the 90s.

          Signed by perfumer Daniel Moliere INSENSé became my go to clubs, nightlife sex, recreational y'all know what I mean it was sexy attractive and different just gorgeous nothing compares to it and sadly it was discontinued thankfully I have 2 bottles saved for special occasions.

          The notes were fabulous Insensé : aldehydes, black currant, lavender, mandarin orange, bergamot, lemon and basil; middle notes are magnolia, lily-of-the-valley and iris; base note is fir.

          Great article I'm sure there are other florals I have but this one INSENSé" I'll never forget to bad it didn't get all the raves it deserved it probably would've been a seller these days!
          And I love my Gardenias
          Andy the Frenchy
          Bois Marocain

          Andy the Frenchy 10/24/20 15:24

          I can't think of a single jasmine-centered fragrance that is fully masculine, unisex at most. I pull off easily a lot of unisex fragrances, even a few clearly feminine smelling. But Jasmin and Cigarette is definitley not one of these, and I might think to sell my bottle given how feminine it smells. Bad call.
          Myths Man

          Cylob 10/24/20 07:39

          Reflection Man by Amouage is my favorite flowery perfume at the moment. A great example of a masculine floral. Always gives me summer vibes.

          GoldIris 10/24/20 05:14

          This article is more about western fragrances I suppose, because florals have always been considered unisex in middle-eastern fragrances.
          Moustache Eau de Parfum

          kigyo 10/23/20 23:44

          My favorite blend ever was in Trussardi Uomo Fresh. A spice honeysucle and sage mix, with the right amount of other ingredients. Wish Trussardi would bring this back or create something similar.
          Giorgio for Men

          Fragrantguy 10/22/20 21:50

          I’m noticing everyone mentioning Fleur De Male being a floral men’s fragrance. A word of warning, all I got from FDM was chamomile, a very hay like chamomile. I felt sick wearing it and sold it pronto on eBay. As a guy who loves flowers, I’ve spent a lot of time on fragrantica researching florals for men and what floral notes are most prominent. If you want florals for men, stick with the likes of Dior Homme (an iris bomb), Givenchy Gentleman Boise (another iris bomb), Moschino Toy Boy (extremely unisex, a lot of rose and magnolia, also a huge compliment getter), 1 Million parfum for him (white florals dominate this fragrance), Grey Flannel (an old green floral, very earthy), Prada L’homme (a clean violet and iris floral), and not to mention a hundred other unisex fragrances out there that are affordable with plenty of floral notes.

          antitheist 10/22/20 17:43

          Personally I like a male/female binary. I don't want to wear a fragrance marketed to women. I am a man, and I want a fragrance marketed to men.

          As other have pointed out, Gaultier's Fleur du Male is a floral fragrance marketed to men. It was discontinued. Xerjoff's Oesel is a good substitute (not the same, but close).

          None of the fragrances in this article appeal to me. I'd suggest Isabey's Sir Gallahad, with gardenia and jasmine, although if you read the comments people say it's not masculine, it's way too feminine. OK, so you may choose to reject the man/woman binary, but the vast majority of people don't, and at the end of the day these fragrance are being sold to make a profit. Have you considered that men don't want to smell like sweet flowers? Or that other men, and even women, will say it makes them smell like a girl?

          I tried Carnal Flower because of the positive reviews, but I wasn't impressed. I think Madonna's Truth or Dare (also discontinued) is a much more pleasant fragrance. But would I wear it? Out in public? Not a chance.
          Guess Dare

          Scentim3nt4l 10/22/20 11:18

          The sadly discontinued Jean paul gaultier fleur du male... An absolute phenomenal floral male fragrance. Wish i still had a bottle!
          Italian Cypress

          Jareth 10/22/20 06:06

          Thanks for this article, Sergey. There are chinks of light beginning to show. I will be trying them all. We need all the encouragement we can get. Changing society is a slow process.
          RJ Watson
          Stash SJP

          RJ Watson 10/22/20 04:19

          I worked for the Fresh brand when their Hombre collection was launched and their tuberose scent mentioned here was the clear standout. It was tuberose heaven and sexy as hell. What I wouldn’t give to have a bottle of that glorious juice today!
          Red Roses

          Konga5000 10/22/20 03:01

          I wish that MEN would stop being such COWARDS about wanting to smell like sweet flowers because it will "make them smell like a girl". DUDES : your body chemistry can tweak flowers in your direction and smell wonderful.
          Chanel No 5 Eau de Parfum

          DomfromBE 10/22/20 00:10

          The cold woody Violet of Grey Flannel or the one from Fahrenheit. These mainstreams were marketed to men. Niche is more unisex/gender bender/no gender. And the very feminine 1000 from Patou, worn by a man, can be a real jewel.
          Mercurial Muzz
          The Dreamer

          Mercurial Muzz 10/21/20 21:59

          Great piece Sergey. I've always loved scented shrubs/flowers/trees, and plants in general, so floral elements in masculine scents is a subject that really interests me. The scent that immediately comes to mind is the glorious Fleur du Male. Composed by the master Francis Kurkdjian, this is spring/cleanliness/individuality bottled. Amazing opening progressing all the way to a drydown that is unlike any other male scent before it, or since. Had three bottles of this. All now empty. I wish this was brought back in the same formulation.

          ristovski_david 10/21/20 17:53


          I don't see the problem here. We can still have "binarism" and people can still wear what they want. The same way there's "binary" and "non-binary", which ironically is "binarism" in itself, no?

          VIPMEN 10/21/20 17:35

          im sorry... i get the point of this but:
          when are we gonna stop this man/woman binarism?
          if you like it, wear it!
          Aqua Universalis Forte

          milkyway 10/21/20 16:43

          Love florals on men! My favourite by far is Prada Homme. Also love Aqua Universalis & Universalis Forte by MFK.
          Fleur du Male

          ZoopyGoggins 10/21/20 15:48

          Since 2015, when I first smelled it and was fortunate enough to acquire a few 125ml bottles, Jean Paul Gaultier Fleur du Male has been my favourite ever fragrance. Utterly captivating!!!
          Chanel de Lanvin
          Patchouli Leaves

          Chanel de Lanvin 10/21/20 15:17

          Army of Lover - Opus X - PHI Une Rose de Kandahar - Oud Silk Mood Extrait de parfum
          Ombré Leather (2018)

          Sektor_nl 10/21/20 14:00

          Cartier Declaration d'un Soir (and the Intense version) are pretty accessible rose scents in my opinion and good starting points for a journey into rose scents.
          Giorgio for Men

          Fragrantguy 10/21/20 11:45

          Dior Homme is pretty much an iris bouquet ??
          Tocade 2013

          LadyIva 10/21/20 11:23

          MFK Oud Silk Mood Extrait - the most amazing rose
          Pink Iris

          Tonkks 10/21/20 10:12

          Oud Palao, Calligraphy Rose, Calligraphy Saffron... all the roses are good on men...
          Joys of life

          Joys of life 10/21/20 09:21

          Royal Mayfair, Creed, is a beautiful masculine fragrance with an unlisted (on fragrantica) white floral component, probably tuberose.
          Iris Nazarena

          productofitaly 10/21/20 08:25

          My favourite floral perfume for men has always been and will always be ?Insensé“ de Givenchy.

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