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          Best in Show: Kenzo (2020)
          Best in Show

          In memoriam Kenzo Takada

          When great designers die they leave us with a simultaneous sense of sadness and awe. Sad, because they could still give us so much more, and awe, because of the realization of the scope of their gifts to us. It happened when Yves Saint Laurent died. It happened when Hubert de Givenchy died. And now Kenzō Takada, the Japanese fashion designer who somersaulted into the Paris fashion scene in the 1960s, has joined them, out of complications of Covid-19, as per news sources, at the age of 81. 

          Kenzo Flower 20th anniversary ad For a Beautiful WorldBorn on February 27, 1939, in Himeji, in the Hyōgo Prefecture, to parents who ran a hotel, Kenzo was early on attracted by fashion, loving his sister's fashion magazines and designing his own sketches. He attended Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College, one of the first male students there, winning  the Soen Award in 1961 and putting his mark in the actual work at the Sanai department store, where he served as the girl's clothing designer.

          Kenzo Takada fashion designer portrait

          portrait via Kenzo Takada official Instagram

          But the great interest of Kenzo was Paris, and the (at the time) revolutionary work of Yves Saint Laurent. His teacher Chie Koike, himself educated at L'École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, encouraged him and so Kenzo soon established himself in Monmarte, the hippy and eclectic side of Paris. In this up till then virgin territory for fashion boutiques, he famously painted the inside of his first rented space, the Galerie Viviene, in jungle motifs inspired by Henri Rousseau's famous painting The Dream. His love of color and vivid imagery would make Kenzo famous very soon. 

          Henri Rousseau The Dream La Reve

          In June 1970, Elle featured one of his designs on its cover, which allowed him to move to the Passage Choiseul in 1970. The presentation of his collections in New York City and Tokyo in 1971 was followed by winning the prestigious Fashion Editor Club of Japan prize. Therefore, in October 1976, Kenzo Takada was able to open his flagship store, Kenzo, in the Place des Victoires. And the rest is history, as they say.

          Kenzo boutique at Hotel de Soyecourt

          Awarded the Ordre des Arts et des Lettres, in 1984 by France, and the Medals of Honor / Medal with Purple Ribbon by Japan in 1999, Kenzo enjoyed tremendous success as the first Japanese designer in Paris, paving the way for the Japanese "invasion" into fashion in the 1980s. Contrary to the somber, ascetic, and intensely cerebral "black" designs of his Japanese fellows, however, Kenzo was always different with his colorful designs, which were multi-cultural rather than stereotypical Japanese. His joie de vivre was catching!

          The Kenzo Parfums division was launched in 1987, though evidence of the earliest Kenzo perfume—1978's King Kong, in keeping with the "Jungle Jap" theme—suggests the designer was interested in fragrance prior to launching a separate fragrance division. Kenzo Parfums' first official release was 1988's Kenzo for Women, a scent whose name was later changed to ça sent beau (which translates to "it smells nice"). A series of successful fragrances for men and women have since been offered, including the company's flagship scent, the ground-breaking Flower by Kenzo.

          Kenzo Parfums joined the multi-national luxury goods conglomerate LVMH in 1993, and Kenzo Takada officially retired from the company in 1999, though he has since reappeared as a designer of home decor and furnishings.

          The collection of Kenzo fragrances is magnificent. Our international team of editors, saddened by the news of his passing, pay their tribute to the seminal fragrances which represent the magic of Kenzo Takada for them. Please join us in the comments below the article with your own favorites. 

          Introduction by Elena Vosnaki



          Ça sent beau
          By: Miguel Matos, editor of Fragrantica in Portuguese

          Kenzo Ca sent beau

          Tuberose is always that multifaceted floral scent that can bring you many surprises and different emotions. The tuberose in Ça Sent Beau is a whirlwind of past and future, air and water, light and darkness. And it is (was) fascinating. I am lucky to have two bottles of this wonderful vintage, and as a lover of green florals and tuberose, this delights me as well as brings some nostalgia. Inside a romantic, artistic sculpture that happens to be a bottle, this scent is pure poetry. The tuberose is citric, but it is also musky. It is fruity and also green. But this tuberose is also natural and synthetic at once, evoking the smell of plastic. In fact, this has the strange and otherworldly element that later on we saw in Cacharel's Eden, Gucci Rush or Jean Paul Gaultier's Fragile. It's a retro-futuristic creation that extends our perception of a flower, amplifying all of its facets. Ça Sent Beau (This Smells Good) never stops being fun, it has that cheerfulness of someone who doesn't take him/herself too seriously. It's an emotional and sensual scent, but also something that isn't for everyone, hence its special allure. Ça Sent Beau is (was), in a word, visionary, and something iconic for the experimental period of the 80's and 90's. 

          Honorable Mentions: Kenzo Pour Homme, Kenzo Jungle Elephant, 5.40 PM in Madagascar, Kashaya, Parfum d'été, Tokyo.



          Flower by Kenzo
          By: Sofia Shang writer for Fragrantica in Chinese

          Flower by kenzo

          Flower By Kenzo is easily one of the canonized Kenzo fragrances that is classic yet still polarizing to this day.  At least where I spent my childhood, in China, most of us Gen Y and Gen Z rave that L’Eau par Kenzo Pour Homme is the ultimate sunny boyfriend in white shirt type of scent, while Flower By Kenzo evokes the domineering lady image and it picks it wearer. Somehow these Kenzo scents, and most of the other popular Kenzo creations, are much more well accepted than classics like No.5 or Shalimar among the new fragrance wearing generation. I guess it says something about where Mr Kenzo Takada’s perfume empire sits with the young. After all, it is Kenzo who famously said, "but I am influenced by the world that says I influence it. The world I live in is my influence."

          Flower By Kenzo was built on the idea of showing the scentless poppy flowers' fragrance with an artificial construction of scents. Some cannot handle it for various reasons, but I must be one of the lucky ones who find Flower By Kenzo beautiful and easy to pull off, akin to a nicely fitted dress you can wear to almost any occasion, from a picnic to work. It is categorized as an oriental floral perfume, but instead of your typical amber, spice, or woody notes you find in many of these type of perfumes, Flower strides perfectly on the line between the Morillas-style fluffy and comforting gentle musk, and the sense of an almost calligraphy type of clearness and wildness. It showcases a scent kaleidoscope with fragments made of earthy green yet spicy violet, soft silky Bulgaria roses, sweet, warm, almost gourmand vanilla, hawthorn, and a soft and comforting musk. It’s the perfect balance of push and pull among these ingredients, so it’s hard to really call it powdery, sweet, floral, or even clean. It’s like an equilibrium between the déjà vu of baby powder and retro makeup nostalgia, and the sharp focus of a clean and sheer chiffon dress blown up by a spring breeze. Somehow it is like a scent parallel with the Kenzo fashion trademark of a profusion of bright colors. 

          Flower by Kenzo is what I call an avant-garde creation with a wearability check. I hope its aroma and vision, which has been scenting generations over the past two decades, will keep on influencing us. Rest in peace, Mr Kenzo Takada.

          Honorable mentions: L’Eau par Kenzo pour Homme, Kenzo Jungle L’Elephant, Kenzo Amour, Parfum d'été.


          By: Rouu Abd El-Latif, editor of Fragrantica in Arabic

          Kenzo Power

          A weightless floral for men that stands for anything but “power”! It was the legacy of the Japanese house coming through via Kenzo Power in 2008, housed in a sleek silver bottle with the concept of a minimal composition for a masculine edition. Power is a fresh spicy, sensual, and more pronounced expression of what makes many shy fragrances present but not persistent. It opens up fresh; a balsamic citrus floral accord takes the lead like a gleam – it steadily projects without being loud. Power sprinkles a cold whiff of spicy coriander over an elegant floral bouquet; it feels like monsieur Polge lightened the heavy weighing musky violets of Kenzo’s Flower to fit them into a masculine olfactory pyramid, and it was felicitous. It manages to remain cozy in terms of a zesty aromatic freshness rather than being warm or resinous.

          The rose/floral nuance sprinkled into a dusty yet airy-powdery base keeps the entire development fresh like a cold breeze; its sappy spiciness leaves me with an   insatiable appetite for what’s next! It never develops into a regular warm masculine  base; instead it gets smoothly textured, a bit less floral and falsely modest. Power is unique, leaving what’s expected and trend-following behind. It fits a gray horizon and running rivers, with sun gleams over distant green peaks, extensively fresh, smiles echoing, extended moments of quietude, tranquility and peace of mind wrapped up in a contemporary heart.



          L'Eau par Kenzo pour Homme
          By: John Biebel, co-editor and writer for Fragrantica.com

          Eau par Kenzo pour homme

          Some fragrances are milestones in our own personal development. As much as aquatics and fresh fragrances get a bad reputation these days, I continually add a significant foot note to that summary, reminding myself and others about the beauty that is L’Eau par Kenzo pour Homme. A cool, waterlily-infused fragrance full of yuzu and mint, it’s an uncomplicated, dynamic, but thoughtful fresh scent of late Sunday afternoons at the close of summer. I first wore L’Eau par Kenzo pour Homme at the end of a difficult transition in life, having relocated back to the US after living abroad for a while. I picked this fragrance out of many in a shop on Cape Cod in Massachusetts - the intention was to find something that would brighten my mood, and this seemed to do the trick.

          Some fragrances can provide a bit of armor for us while they also provide an appealing smell - I wore L’Eau par Kenzo pour Homme well into autumn that year, looking forward to the start of each day when I could put some on. It’s that perfect fit for people who want the bracing cool of zesty citrus but the personal comfort of musk. It’s not sweet, and a note of green pepper adds a certain mild bit of spice in a wet, snapping, freshly-cut way, assuring that your senses will be alert and sharp. Cedar is one of the few base notes in this otherwise top- and middle-note-heavy scent, but you’re not going to miss any heavy nuances here. This perfume does not try to knock you over, (doesn’t want to knock anyone over, for that matter,) but does create a zone of bright, sparkling comfort around it.

          Kenzo’s perfumes often involve twists on ideas that we’ve grown used to, or fresh looks at previous traditions. L’Eau par Kenzo pour Homme first appeared in the late 90s and one wonders if the world needed yet another Cool Water in the vast catalog of aquatic fragrances. But Kenzo’s notion of “watery” was different - where Cool Water is a sharp blast, L’Eau is haiku. And like the poetry, it’s substantial enough of a citrus perfume that it can be worn throughout the day, and even leave traces on the body at night - gentle and profound. It sends you delightful remembrances of warm days and provides a shoulder to lean on when yours might be weak. How does a perfume do that? It distracts you from your thoughts and tells you to calm down. It soothes, particularly through the use of yuzu and lemon (lending a humming, zest-full top note,) and provides structure (by sticking around for a long while.) I don’t wear this as often as I did - perhaps I don’t need the externalized comfort as much now? But just the thought of L’Eau par Kenzo Pour Homme makes me thoughtful and puts me at peace.

          Honorable Mentions: Kenzo Pour HommeFlower by KenzoKenzo World PowerKenzo Jungle L’Elephant.



          Parfum d'été
          By: Elena Vosnaki, editor of Fragrantica in Greek, co-editor Fragrantica.comParfum d'Ete Kenzo

          The first encounter I had with this unique ethereal green floral fragrance was with its predecessor in the misty glass and plastic bottle with the huge dew drop on the leaf that served as cap. The 1992 Parfum d'Ete. It was an eventful summer for me, with lots of glorious escapades that marked my youth, and the company of this delicate green jasmine that sang on the verdant throes of lily of the valley was the perfect embodiment of that carefree summery disposition which remains a wonderful memory. Back then, all I knew about Kenzo was that he was a Far Eastern designer who resided in Paris. And the fragrance in my mind seemed to embody both ends of the spectrum, being light and cerebral, like I imagined the Japanese to be, judging by their elaborate tea ceremony, and at the same time insidiously sensuous and subtly sexy in a carefree way, in the way models on the French Elle magazine spreads used to sprawl under the sun in the French countryside; I used to devour those magazines. Alongside Kenzo Homme, a revolutionary aquatic for men with an algae-woody backdrop, for a long time these two represented the new fresh breath of air that the Far East blew into the perfume scene, for me.  

          Enter 10 years later and the 2002 edition of Parfum d'été substituted my lovely bottle with a more architectural, sparser design. At first, I was afraid that the repackaging was worse, and therefore the experience would be tarnished as well (though reformulations were not as big, nor as well known as nowadays, but the aesthetic was part of why the first edition had caught my eye in the first place). Thankfully I was soon proven wrong. The spicy green top note remains, as if a drop of galbanum had been dropped into a giant vat of lily of the valley materials with a side helping of my beloved hyacinth; cool, dewy, and sharp at first, delicate and whispering later on with musk remaining on the skin for a long time, though subtly perceptible. As fresh as tomorrow! If only we could graft this mood onto ourselves as well, sometimes...

          Honorable mentions: Flower by Kenzo Le ParfumSummer by KenzoKenzo Homme,  Eau de Fleur de SoieKenzo Jungle L’Elephant.




          Do you have a favorite fragrance by Kenzo?
          We'd like to know what it is: join the conversation in the comments below!




          Elena Vosnaki

          Elena Vosnaki Editor, Writer & Translator

          Elena Vosnaki is a historian, archaeologist and fragrance...

          John Biebel

          John Biebel Writer

          John Biebel (johngreenink) is a painter, writer and softw...

          Miguel Matos

          Miguel Matos Editor, Writer, Translator

          Miguel has been a Fragrantica editor and columnist since ...

          Rouu Abd El-Latif

          Rouu Abd El-Latif Editor, Writer, Translator

          Rouu is a financial analyst who holds a PhD in Economics....

          Yi Shang (怡 商)

          Yi Shang (怡 商) Editor, Writer & Translator

          Yi Shang, known as Sofia by friends, studied Biochemistry...

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          News Comments

          Write your comment
          Dorange Sense

          Dorange Sense 10/25/20 06:56

          L‘eau par Kenzo pour homme braught me into the perfume game. So underrated!
          Sira des Indes

          SueC 10/24/20 23:09

          I loved the Parfums Kenzo website a few years ago when it had a wonderful visual of all the Kenzo perfumes that epitomised their beauty and roots in nature. Parfum d'ete is probably my second favourite perfume of all time and I treasure it. It is the grassy green bee-buzzing epitome of summer and I never tire of it. Happiness in a bottle. One of the few perfumes in history that were improved in the reformulation. I also love the wonderful but complex Ca Sent Beau. I also have some Jungle L'Elephant and wear it time to time for its fun nature. Beautiful beautiful Kenzo, thank you so much for your artistic creations that bring joy.
          Joop! Splash Summer Ticket

          ProtonN 10/11/20 02:22

          Kenzo was ahead of time!
          My first bought fragrance(with own money) was L'Eau Kenzo Pour Homme.
          I was amazed by the initial notes of fresh pilled bark, also the bottle was amazing complementary.

          I didn't expect from John Biebel this fresh fragrance, blasphemy. :-)
          Why is a "sin" to like fresh fragrances?! And to explicitly justify your choice!
          I like clean, comforting scents, as you said, that brings peace of mind.
          If it makes you calm why not wear it often.
          Dolce&Gabbana Pour Homme (2012)

          mortezaa 10/11/20 00:33

          l'eau par kenzo ( both for men and women ) are the best of kenzo . I also like jungle pour homme and kenzo flower .
          Santal Majuscule

          barayamane 10/10/20 19:28

          The only Kenzo I have is Leou par Kenzo. I hurriedly stirred the cupboard and finally came out. It has a watermelon-scented summer scent, but it is as bright and mellow as when I was about 20 years old. Thank you Kenzo.
          French Leather

          Aroma.Path 10/10/20 07:35

          Such a brilliant mind is taken by Covid-19, but his legacy will continue with triumphant march. Once unknown among French fashion designers, he brought Japanese culture into this world with great sense of style, taste and pride. He is always be missed and remembered by millions around the world. His unique playful scents are just one more way he can share his joyful heart with lots of fans. I am just one of them. Rest in peace great Master and may your family be well for generations to come.
          Vegas Pauli
          Libre Intense

          Vegas Pauli 10/08/20 16:08

          I do not like "freshie" colognes or even worse aquatics. The only exception is Kenzo Homme (the vintage original) Maybe this is why my tastes run this way: Kenzo Homme killed everything else in comparison. The blue/gray bottle it came it represents this fragrance so well...its like you a taking a walk in a forest after a rain. You walk through a clearance pass the trees, then you see and smell the ocean. Nothing captures this imagery like Kenzo Homme. One spray back in 1991 and I was forever hooked. RIP Kenzo, you most certainly were a genius.
          Alien Fusion

          scentedcyndi 10/08/20 10:44

          I wore Pardum d'Ete when it first came out (so beautiful!) and L'Elephant

          smellagent 10/08/20 07:18

          My faves are Kenzo Flower Essentialle and I love Elephant and Tigre as well. The one I always wanted to try was King Kong.
          Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca

          MixedTastes 10/08/20 07:04

          Amour! Such a cosy vanilla pudding of a fragrance. Charming and comforting and even in a sea of vanillas, it stands out as a cut above.
          Jitterbug Perfume Lover
          What I Did On My Holidays

          Jitterbug Perfume Lover 10/07/20 22:33

          Safe journey to the other side, Mr. Takada. We will sincerely miss your particularly colorful and vibrant vision of our world. Thank you, most especially for Flower and Peace. I discovered Flower on the last day of my botched "honeymoon" that I took by myself because I cancelled my wedding at the last minute. Instead of going down the aisle, I went on a whirlwind road trip with my best friend, my Mom, across the border to Mexico and ate, drank, and laughed way too much until I found my mojo again, and decided to go back home. On the last day, as I crossed the border back home, I discovered Flower in a little duty free shop and spent the very last of the money I had in my pocket to buy it. It was the perfect ending to my trip and it makes me smile every time I look at that bottle because it reminds me to always follow my heart. Thank you for helping me make lemonade out of lemons. You will be missed.
          Bvlgari Man In Black

          matty64 10/07/20 22:12

          I own several fragrances by Kenzo. My all time favorite is Kenzo Amour Indian Holi. My deepest condolences to Mr. Takadas’ family and friends. He will be sincerely missed by fashion admirers and those of us who appreciated his gentle, simplistic fluidity.

          rickyrebarco 10/07/20 20:15

          Kenzo Flower and Kenzo Amour. I loved his clothing designs as well.
          The Colognnoisseur

          The Colognnoisseur 10/07/20 20:14

          I only have one Kenzo and that is Homme Boisee / Woody.
          Flower by Kenzo

          jazzfan 10/07/20 15:07

          My childhood fried fell in love with Ca Sent Beau before it was called that. My favorite cousin wears Kenzo pour Homme since it came out. I bought my sister in law, when she was still just a girlfriend, her first bottle of L'Eau par Kenzo. I waited, in vain, Flower to be less popular to wear it. It's one of my favorite make up based perfumes and as much as I enjoy discovering new ones, they are rarely as accessible, affordable, or as good as Flower.
          I need a new bottle.

          You will be missed Mr Takada.

          Eicher 10/07/20 11:56

          Kenzo Flower...signature fragrance since 2005.
          Kenzo Jungle...another beloved fragrance.
          Mr. Kenzo, your genius will be missed.
          drugstore classics
          Fancy Love

          drugstore classics 10/07/20 11:32

          Lovely tribute, everyone! :)

          I personally like Kenzo Flower and LOVE Kenzo Jungle L'elephant... It seems to me unusual that a Japanese designer would create such groundbreaking scents, as Japan itself is not necessarily known for bold fragrances. In fact, I notice that Asia (to generalize, forgive me!) primarily prefers the most gentle, soft, clean scents available. He was SO unique for his culture. <3
          Acqua di Parma Blu Mediterraneo - Mandorlo di Sicilia

          mbazzelle 10/07/20 10:39

          My favorite is Kenzo World Eau de Parfum Intense. I fell in love with it and it's one that I have a backup bottle of just in case. RIP

          leeenalooo 10/07/20 10:16

          I have finished 2 bottles of Kenzo Flower. Revolutionary scent. I used to borrow Le Monde est Beau and Parfum D'Ete from my mom, when I was a teenager and these perfumes will always associate with youth and carefree times. Now I have Kenzo Elephant and Kenzo Peace, they are my Precious.
          Addictive Vibration

          catndale 10/07/20 09:55

          Flower by Kenzo ??!
          For years my signature scent! The only perfume in my collection I emptied over a dozen of bottles, and, together with Chanel 5, the only female perfume my husband knew by name.

          Dinopi 10/07/20 09:27

          I used to wear Kenzo Jungle back in the late 80's, I still have the box and empty bottle with a ghost of the amazing smell inside... genius
          First Kiss Exclusive

          ntabassum92 10/07/20 07:39

          I love Summer by Kenzo <3 Loved the article!
          Boss The Scent For Her Absolute

          deb.martinez 10/07/20 06:39

          I love and own Flower,L’Elephant,and Amour Le Parfum...??
          Tubereuse Couture 17

          Seducianne 10/07/20 06:03

          I am particularly sad about the departure of sir Takada. His creations, including the olfactory ones, just seemed like an extension of his person - likeable, gentle, with a huge smile that would light up a room. His fragrances, from the most classic ones, to the very modern ones, always had a detail, a color, a shape that would evoke originality, playfulness and joy.
          My favorites are Jungle Elephant, Kenzo Amour and L’eau pour Femme.
          Rest in peace, and possibly between bright colors and enchanting scents, Kenzo.
          what is this I don't even

          what is this I don't even 10/07/20 05:08

          The 1992 Kenzo Parfum d'Ete is a masterpiece.

          Fantasmagoria 10/07/20 03:46

          Monsieur Takada thank You for L'eau, Flower and Jungle RIP
          Air de France

          ciobanu.andreea 10/07/20 03:14

          Rest in peace! My all-time favourite fragrance remains L'eau par Kenzo for women, although there are significant differences in formulation if you compare a vintage to a new bottle. I wish they brought back the original bottle, it was a gem.As far as I remember in the early 90's when this fragrance was a boom, I remember it being sparkling, loud, a lot more powerful than it is today. Also its longevity has changed with the current reformulation.
          Mon Guerlain Sensuelle

          violetstorm 10/07/20 01:42

          sorry to hear of his passing :( always a sad moment in history when we loose someone who has contributed so much........i have always & will always love "flower"........its one of my all time favorite scents.........along with many other flower flankers :) rest in peace...........u will be missed by many.............
          Tutu Woman

          LadyofWahey 10/07/20 01:13

          Rest well, sir. Thank you for having gifted the world in particular Kenzo by Kenzo and Le Monde est Beau - my favourites of yours, although there are several others too - World, Elephant, Ca Sent Beau... Rest well.
          Strange Routine
          Aramis 900

          Strange Routine 10/07/20 00:14

          I wore KenzoAir almost exclusively for a time, love it's simple Anise and Vetiver composition. Kenzo Homme Boisee & L'Eau Par Kenzo I also have enjoyed. RIP to to an original.

          Sevparfumaddict 10/07/20 00:01

          Kenzo ?a sent beau. L'un de mes parfums de la période à la fac. Quelle douceur, et la couleur vert tendre de la bo?te. Près de 10 ans plus tard, coup de foudre pour Kenzo Amour, son flacon tellement design et cette délicate douceur poudrée.
          Christine 78
          Balenciaga L'Essence

          Christine 78 10/06/20 23:48

          Summer by Kenzo (the yellow one ??) is really something special to me.
          It is hard to come by these days, but it is really long lastning, and it just makes me happy wearing it ????
          RJ Watson
          CK be

          RJ Watson 10/06/20 23:40

          I was lucky enough to score three bottles of the original Parfum d’Ete. One 3.4 ounce (the bottle looks HUGE!) and two 1.7 ounce bottles. I will treasure them. Beautiful scent.
          Habit Rouge Eau de Toilette

          mikemuscles21 10/06/20 22:08

          There was a time when I would have said, L'eau. But after trying World, and then after seeing that ridiculous video (loved it), I now say World. Maybe this opinion is to predictable, but oh well, that's what it is.
          Oh wait! And Jungle! I love that one. I forgot about that one.
          Mon Guerlain Bloom of Rose Eau de Parfum

          foldingwishes 10/06/20 21:28

          Oh wow, the descriptions for each perfume are so beautifully constructed. I could see colors and feel textures and settings. What a fitting tribute. Makes me want to try all of them (maybe even the tuberose one... and tuberose always turns rank and rubbery on me)

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